Method of making shoes



F. N. LA- CHAPELLE.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE 20.1919.

Patented Apr. 11, 1922.

UNITED,

FRED N. LA oHAPnnLE, or BnvnnnY, MAssAoHUsE'r-irs, Assmnon ro UNITEDsHo-n MACHINERY co-nrona'rron, or rArEnsoN, NnwJ RsEY,.-A conronnrron.or NEW" JERSEY. v

- Application filed June 20,

provements in'Methods of Making Shoes, of

which the following description, in connection with theaccompanyingdrawings, is a specification, like reference characters onthe' drawingsindicating like parts in-the several" figures.

' shoemaking thatth'e shoe upper be properly F This invention relates tomethods of 'making shoes and particularly'to methods of making shoes inwhich the margin ofthe upper is turned outwardly and attached to themargin of the sole, 'shoes'of this type be ing generally known asstitchdown shoes.

Itis, ofcourse, a prime requisite to good lasted, that is, that thevarious portions of theupper about the periphery of the shoe,particularly along the sides and around the toe, be tensioned inadirection perpendicular to the lastbottom and held temporarily againstthe sides of the-last, including-the portion of the sides adjacent tothe sole edge, before they are permanently attached to the sole. o

In the manufacture'of stitch'down shoes by a known method,'the margin ofthe upper is temporarily fastened to the edge face of the projectingsole by tacks. I When this is done, however, no substantial-tension canbe applied to the upper and'main'tai'ned since the jholding powerof thetacks, when driven into-the leather of the sole, is slight and theupper, since it is bridged across the angle between the "side of thelast and the project; ing marginof the sole, can not be broughtinto-finallastedposition when thus temporarilysecured.

' An object of this invention is to provide a machine for lastingstitchdown' shoe uppers'by which anupper'may be pulled and wiped intolasted position-in the highlyef- -ficientmani1er heretofore practicedonly in lasting welt and McKay shoes and maybe. temporarily secured tothe last bottom."

In one of its broader aspects the present invention consists inlasting'an upper over a last and 'temporarily'securing the margin of theupper directly to the last'bottom, the;

sides of the upper being thereby brough't against thesides of the lastinto finally lasted position. As herein exemplified, the upper is'thenfurther secured in lasted position Specification of Letters Patent. 7

METHOD or MAKING sirens.

1919. Serial No; 305,484.

Patented A t. 11', 1922'.-

along the line at Which the marginofthe upper is to be turned outwardlyto form the sole attaching flange, after which the'fir'st and temporaryfastenings are withdrawn" and the-flange of the'upper is turned out--wardly, a sole being then applied and securedto the outturned margin ofthe upper.

In another'aspect the invention consists in providing on" the lastitself an angle into which the upper maybe lasted as, forexample,by'prov iding'a plate on' the last-b012 5 tom whichprqe'ctsslightly beyond the'side face of the last.- Thislaspect offthe inventionis weSpecially p cable-acne we or the*:

shoe where theupp'er is wiped against the] end and sides of the toe'andforced into the angle'between theside of the 'last a'nd theprojectingplate. Thiscause'sthe portion of the upper margin beyond the plate toflare outwardly and the upper may be secured in the angle inqfinallyzlasted position by a binding wire-located in the angle of the up} perand secured ,at'its ends, for example, to"

the forward'pair' of temporary tacks ei'nployed to secure the sideportion'ofthe lip-' per margin to-thelast bottom. The lasting" of thetoe is effected, of course, beforethe sole is applied as describedabove.

In practice a last is provided which has upon its bottom an iron platewhich prefer ably covers the entire surface of the'last' bottomandat thetoe endo'f the lastprojects slightly beyond the edge of'the'last; Alongthe sides" of the .last'bott'or'n openings are provided in thep'late-iniwhic'h tacksfniay be driven into the wood of the last... Theplate is also providedat certain points along the sides of the/last withslots-which are open at the edge of the last and in which slots thereper prepared as usual is placed over the last,'fl

successive portions of the upper tensioned to it and laid'overthe lastbottom 'ttowhich they are secured by tacks driven through the openingsin the platefintopthe wood of the :1ast.

At the toeof. the last the upper may be tensio'ned and jwiped 'as' usualin a Y direction toward-the-last-bottom and formed into the anglebetween the side-of the last and the slightly projectingmargin of theplate.

Around thetoe" the upper may be held in lasted positionby a binding wireapplied around the toe inthe'angle-fOrmed in the 95 are hooks, the endsof which are; below 't he general surface of the last bottom." Anuptheside by the lasting tacks which are adj acent to the toe end of theshoe. Obviously,

V the lasting of the shoe may be performed by hand or by lastingmachines of known type such as bed lasting machines. After the upper islasted it is secured at the line along which it is to be bent outwardlyby passing a cord or thread through the upper at points opposite to thehooks above mentioned and hooking the thread over the hooks. About thetoe of the shoe the thread is carried around the shoe toe in the samelocation as plied, if desired, in the usual manner. Preferably at theheel end of the shoe a piece of leather the shape of a heel-seat isapplied to the iron plate and the upper is turned in and permanentlysecured to the piece of leather.

In the drawings,-

Fig. 1 is a view of the bottom of a shoe the upper of which has beenlasted in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 1 is a sectional detail of the toe of the shoe shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view, partly in section, showing the manner ofsecuring the upper by a retaining thread to permit the lasting tacks tobe withdrawn;

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the manner of securing the uppertemporarily by lasting tacks;

Fig. 4 shows the lasting tacks removed and the upper turned outwardlyand ready to receive the sole; and

r Fig. 5 is a perspective detail, partly in section, showing theoutturned upper secured to the sole.

In Fig.1 the numeral2 indicates a bottom plate of metal secured to thebottom of the last by screws 4;. This plate 2 preferably about the toeportion where the margin of the plate projects slightly beyond the edgeofthe last, the projection being, for example, of an inch. 'The heelseat portion of the plate 2 is covered by a piece of leather or othersuitable material 6 and the margin of the upper is lasted over upon thepiece 6 in the usual manner and secured by tacks 8 which are clencheduponthe plate 2.

Along the sides of the last the plateQ is provided with holes 10 (Fig.4), exposing the .wood of the last, through which tacks 12 are driventemporarily to secure the margin of the upper over the last bottom undertenien la ted po a projecting portion of the plate 2 it causesthe upperabout the toe to flare outwardly (Fig. l of the shoe to be bentoutwardly, it is held against the side of the last adjacent to the edgeof the plate 2 by a cord, thread, or other filament 13 arranged alongthe line where the outward bend should be located, the cord beingsecured to the last at salient points. This may conveniently be effectedby employing a needle having an eye in its point through which thethreadis passed.

At various points along the sides of the last recesses 16, opening atthe edge of the last,v

are provided andin each recessis a hook 18. The threaded needle ispassed through the upper and open end of the recess *16 and the cord 13hooked over the hook 18 (Fig.

2).. The needle is then withdrawn and car ried along the sides of thelast to the next recess where the operation is repeated. When one sideof the last has been thus To enable the upper at-the sidestreated thecord may conveniently be car-- ried around the toe, and the upper at theother side of thelast secured in place by passing the cord through theupper and over the books .18 along that side of the shoe. The frictionof the thread over the hooks is sutlicient to hold the thread withoutotherwise securing it.

Next the lasting tacks 12 are withdrawn and the upper at the sidesturned outwardly,- cuts 20 being made at the juncture of the.

sides with the heel-seat topermit turning out the portions of upperadjacent to the heel-seat portion which has'already been lastedinwardly. A sole 22 is, now secured to the shoe or last, for instance,by cementing the outwardly turned margin of the upper and applying thesole to the last bottom. After the cement has setthe cord 13 may beremoved and the projecting mar;

gin' of the sole and out-turned margin of the upper sewed together as at2 1 by an stitching is done and the Welt, pper and both soles securedtogether at the same time the upper about the sides of the last andtemporarily securing the upper in contact with the last and undertension, additionally holding the upper to the last, releasing the upperfrom the first-named temporary securing means, applying a sole to thelast bottom, and thereafter completing the manufacture of the shoe.

2. That improvement in making stitchdownshoes which consists intensioningand lasting over the margin of the sides of the upper againstthe bottom of the last, temporarily securing the upper in lastedposition, holding the upper to the last along the line at which it is tobe bent outwardly, releasiru the temporary securing means, bendingoutwardly the margin of the upper, and

then securing the out turned' upper. to the margin of a'sole.

3. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists inproviding a last with a bottom plate which extendsslightly beyond thelast about the toe,wiping the upper about the toe against the last andinto the angle between the side of the'last and the projecting plate,securing the upper in the angle by a binding wire. and then securing asole to the outwardly disposed margin of the upper about the toe.

4;. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists inassembling an upper upon a last, lasting over the margin of the upperand securing'it under. tension in'contact with the last bottom, holdingthe upper to the last along the line at which it is to be turnedoutwardly, releasing the upper where first secured, turning the upperoutwardly along said line, applying a sole to the last bottom, andsecuring the outturned upper to the margin of the'sole.

5. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists intensioning and lasting over the margin ofthe sides of the upper againstthe bottom of the last, tem

porarily securing the upper in lasted position to the last bottom,applying a thread to hold the upperto the last along the line at whichit is to be bent outwardly, releasing the said temporary securingmeans,'bending outwardly the margin of the upper, and'then securing theoutturned upper to the margin of a sole. j

6. That improvement in making stitchdown shoes which consists inprovidinga last with a bottom plate which extends slightly beyond thelast about the toe, wiping the upper about the toe against the last.

and into the angle between the side of the last and the projecting plateto cause the.

upper at the'toe to project outwardly, and

then securing a sole tothe outwardly disposed margin of the upper. 7.That improvement in :making stitchdown shoes which consists inassembling an upper upon a last having no insole thereon, lasting overthe sides of the upper and tacking them under tension to the lastbottom, holding the upper'to the last along the line at which it is tobe turned outwardly, with-' drawing the tacks, turning the upperoutwardly along said line, applying a sole to the last bottom, andsecuring the outturned upper to the margin of the sole.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lastingan upper over the bottom of a last, securing the upper temporarily inlasted position, passing a thread loop at widely spaced points through.the upper in-a direction substantially in the plane of the last bottom,securing the loop to the last, repeating the operation about theperipher of the shoe, tightening the thread to hold t e upper againstthe last, releasing the temporarily secured upper margin and turning itoutwardly, securing a sole to the outturned margin, and removing thethread.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a last with a" bottom plate that projects slightlyf beyondthe'edge of the last at the toe, lasting the upper over the last bottomupon the plate, fastening a toe binding wire about'the toe in the anglebetween the side of the last and the projection of the plate, turningthe overlasted marging of upper outwardly, and securinga sole to theoutturned margin.

10. That improvement in methods of 'mak-. ing shoes which consists inproviding a last with 'a bottom filament passing around the toe, therebyturningthe edge of the upper outwardly, and fastening a sole to theoutturned upper;

11. That improvement in methodsof making shoes which conslsts 1nconformlng an through the upper at the juncture of the side of the lastwith the last'bottom, securing the and securing other loops of the samethread, tightening the thread to hold the upper to plate that projectsslightly] beyond the edge of the last at the toe, con forming the upperto the last about the toe portion, fastening the upper in place byaupper to its last, passing aloop of thread 1 loop to the last,similarly passing through.

the last, turning outwardly the margin of 1 the upper which extendsbeyond the thread, and securing asole tothe outturned margin.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

FRED N. LA .CHAPELLEY,

